Tuesday, 24 April 2012

Im back

So its been a month since my last post, Ive missed blogging but work has been so hectic recently with all sorts of dramas meaning extra hours and extra stress, add to this the new deal on top table and it makes for a very busy month in the kitchen.

In my last few posts I mentioned seasonality alot and this has been a huge focus for the restaurant since it opened, this is part of the reason the restaurant has been so successful, getting great seasonal produce in and cooking it properly but simply to ensure these ingredients reach their potential.

At the moment fresh peas and wild garlic and wet garlic are featuring heavily on the menu, asparagus are also starting to make an appearance but it will be a few weeks before the best of british asparagus make a ful introduction to the menu.

Something I have learnt alot about recently though are mushrooms, something I have previously had no interest in due to my hatred of them! however being a chef means you have to try everything, and as Heston says it can tke as few as 21 tastes of something you don't like for it to become something you do! Any way getting back on topic wild mushrooms are in season for a short period of time every year, april/may see's the growth of morels which are extremely expensive (we paid £70 for 1kilo) and are seen as a delicacy, I've had the pleasure of trying a few over the last week and I must admit they are delicious! If these are out of your price range (Which they are for nearly everyone) then dried morels can be brought and soaked,  change the water regularly lifting the mushrooms out leaving the grit in the water.

If you can get your hands on either o these you can use theme to make an amazing mushroom risotto or make a creamy morel sauce to go with a grilled chicken breast.

Tuesday, 20 March 2012

New Season, New Menu

Its been an extremely busy week, especially because of mothers day on Sunday which made the weekend all the busier. We got through it with not too much stress and very few raised voices :)

Went in to work yesterday to be greeted with a whole host of new seasonal ingredients and a new menu to start at lunch...time to push on then I guess.

We have new season lamb sweetbreads with lambs tongue, wild garlic, jersey royals and baby onions.
North African spiced Mackerel and baked aubergine and a slightly out there dish which I love, Parsley soup with snail tortellini and sauteed snails in garlic butter and a red wine jus.

Think of the flavours!

The north African mackerel is a take on a traditional dish called Imam baylidi, which translates as the priest feinted, this is reportedly because he feinted when he ate it because it was so good, another variation was because of the price of the ingredients and the amount of oil in it...it is a spiced onion, tomato and aubergine dish traditionally braised in olive oil and served cold as a meze. Definitely worth a try, I got to have a nibble last night and it was delicious, it could easily be altered to contain meat, like minced beef or another mullet??

Anyway I'm going to have to take some more pics of the dishes we are producing at the moment and post them on here for your perusal.

Monday, 12 March 2012

Steamed Sea Bass with a Soy Ginger and Chilli Broth

So in keeping with my seasonality post earlier I thought I'd post this dish as we are approaching spring, and sea bass, probably my favourite fish is in season.

Ingredients:
1 Fillet of sea bass cut in half with skin on per person
2 Spring onions sliced diagonally
90ml Mirin Sweet Wine
125ml Rice Vinegar
500ml Soy Sauce
1250ml water
Sesame Oil
1/2 Garlic head peeled and thinly sliced on mandolin
4 Red Chilli's (more if you like it hotter) half de-seed and julienne width ways
2 Thumbs Ginger slice on mandolin and julienne.
1 Litre fish stock
1 Pak Choi per person
1 Cucumber
100ml White Wine Vinegar
100ml Water
100g Sugar
Chervil - Picked
Shiso Cress

To make the broth:
Sweat off the garlic, chilli's and ginger in a splash of sesame oil, be careful not to colour any of the ingredients.
Add the Mirin, Rice Vinegar, Soy Sauce and water and bring to the boil.
Remove from the heat. The broth won't need seasoning as the soy sauce is extremely salty already you may need to adjust the broth by adding more water if it is still too salty.

For the Cucumber:
Mix the 100ml water, sugar and white wine vinegar in a pan and heat until combined, leave to cool.
Peel the cucumber cut into 3 and half length ways and cut into battons. Remove the seeds they are just water and will take away the pickled effect. add the cucumber to the pickling liquor and leave to pickle.

To cook the Sea Bass:
Place the Sea bass and Pak Choi into a steamer and place the steamer over the boiling fish stock.
Leave to cook for 6-7mins until just cooked.

To serve place the Pak Choi into a bowl and carefully place the bass on top. pile 4 battons of cucumber on top of the bass and spoon over the hot soy dressing, sprinkle over some of the chopped spring onion and top off with shisho cress and the picked chervil.

The resulting flavours should be a delicately cooked fish, with a flavour full broth with a spice to it. The cucumber adds a crunchy texture and an acidity to cut through the saltiness of the broth.


Seasonality

This wasn't something I had ever thought about until about 2years ago when I started working in top kitchens and the dishes changed monthly, weekly and more recently even daily! I was fascinated at the different seasons and the glorious food that appeared during that time, I soon found myself trying different fruit and veg that I had previously not liked purely because it was a different time of year, take asparagus for example, I couldn't stand it, and knew it made you smell funny after!! now however having tried English asparagus at the time its meant to be eaten around April I cant get enough!

I urge everyone to find out what is in season and to try something new or even something old just at a different time and I can assure you, you may find a new favourite just like I did.

Here is a simple chart that I was given at college that could really get you on the path to finding something new.



Tuesday, 6 March 2012

Salted Caramel and White Chocolate Fondant

I've noticed a distinct lack of sweet dishes on here so thought I'd post this recipe, that we used at a hotel that I used to work at, we served it as a petit four but the size could easily be increased to be served as a main dessert.

You will need:
352g Butter
325g Caster Sugar
350g Eggs
225g T55 Flour
15g Salt
1 1/2 Vanilla pods
360g White chocolate

Make a dry caramel with 175g of the sugar take the caramel really dark, verging on burnt to 216degrees.
Whilst this is cooking make a sabayon by whisking the remaining 150g Sugar with the eggs. Melt the butter and Vanilla in a pan.
Use the melted butter to deglaze the caramel, be careful this may splash and is extremely hot!! Add the salt and chocolate and whisk until the chocolate is fully incorporated in the caramel butter mixture.
Add the hot mixture to the sabayon and whisk well.
Finally whisk in the flour.

Pipe the mixture into moulds, or tart cases and cook in the oven at 185degrees. Cook until the mixture becomes just sponge like on top and serve immediately, this should take 10-15mins for a 70g portion, the result should be a delicious oozing centre.

Like I said we served this as a petit four but I think it would be delicious served as a main dessert, maybe with a white chocolate Ice-cream, and some caramel popcorn.



Monday, 5 March 2012

Braised Shoulder of Lamb

Sorry for the lack of activity, work has been unbelievably busy, who says there's a recession?!

On a rare day off I decided to cook at home for the family, and opted for braised lamb shoulder, so off to the butchers I trotted and got a beautiful on the bone, huge shoulder of lamb, 2.2kg for just £13.

I paired it with a garlic puree, spinach, roasted garlic butter crouton and Roosevelt potatoes.

Pre-heat the oven to 160degrees.

For the lamb brown off 20 shallots and 20 garlic cloves in a roasting dish big enough to fit the shoulder in place a bundle of aromatic herbs (rosemary and thyme) on to the shallots and place the shoulder on top of that season the lamb liberally as it is a huge piece of meat so will take a lot of seasoning. Cover the lamb with 1/2 bottle of wine and a litre of chicken stock. Cover with foil and place in the oven for 3hrs 30 check regularly turning the meet occasionally. Its cooked when the meat is falling off the bone.

For the croutons slice the white bread into batons about 1inch wide and the length of the slice with no crusts. fry until golden brown in duck fat.

For the roast garlic butter peel two heads of garlic and place in tin foil with butter, a sprig of thyme, salt and pepper and roast in the oven until the garlic softens and browns, mash the garlic and butter with a fork and mix through chopped parsley.

The garlic puree is really easy and delicious. cover a pan with peeled garlic and cover with water bring to the boil and drain. whilst the garlic is boiling sweat off 1/2 an onion in butter and salt and add the drained garlic, sweat until soft on a low heat add a splash of cream and blitz until smooth.

The spinach is simple and delicious, it takes about 40seconds, melt a knob of butter in a frying pan and add the spinach, it may look like too much for the pan but it soon wilts to about half the size so fill the pan full, season with salt and pepper and serve immediately with the boiled new potatoes, the warm crouton with melted butter, plenty of the moreish garlic puree and the meat that should be so tender it can be cut with a spoon.

Give it a try and let me know your results.


Monday, 20 February 2012

Christopher's Grill

I thought I would post my first review on a restaurant that I have very fond memories of as it is where I started my career in the kitchen, head chef Francis Agyepong and Sous Chef Barry Crawford taught me a hell of a lot!

I took my girlfriend there just before I started this blog but felt that I should put a review up, why not document past food memories?!

For those that don't know, Christopher's is in Covent Garden in a great Victorian grade II listed building with amazing views over Waterloo bridge and the strand. Its a large restaurant with a beautiful candle lit spiral staircase that takes you from the reception up to the restaurant. With an nouvaux American menu sitting alongside modern European and Asian dishes.



We arrived slightly earlier than our booking so were taken to the martini bar which was extremely busy, but not so much that you couldn't move or drink without getting some down your chin(you all know what I mean). We decided to have a couple of their champagne cocktails, I had a Bellini, whilst Laura went for a passion fruit cocktail, which although was very nice it did come with the hazard of getting seeds stuck in your teeth!

We were soon shown up the grand staircase to our table, this was the first time I'd been in the restaurant before so was a new experience for me being on the other side but the memory of the dishes was still fresh.

Our waiter came with a selection of breads and surprise drinks from the chef.

Now to the food, I had a Confit of duck salad with crisp lettuce, Charleston slaw & tamarind sauce
The salad was crisp adding a crunch to the perfect confit duck leg and the pickled cucumber was fresh and cut through the richness of the duck.

Laura had seared scallops with chervil root puree, balsamic glaze and chervil crisps, 3 scallops seared and seated on a bed of chervil root puree which was well seasoned and very smooth. The balsamic glaze added a sweet touch to the dish.


For our mains I went for a Christopher's speciality, surf 'n' Turf Steak, this is a 1/2 lobster grilled in a herb butter served with buttered spinach, a 10oz rib eye steak and a choice of sauce, I went for Bearnaise...I love the stuff! The steak was treated simply with the natural flavour of the extremely tender meat shining through, I had mine medium-rare and it was cooked perfectly.

Laura had a Lobster thermidor which was accompanied with creamy mash potato and a cobb salad, She loved every mouthful...not sharing much either it was so good. The meat was perfectly cooked and pulled away from the shell with ease and the creamy mustard filling mixed with the natural juice of the lobster made the dish extremely aromatic and delicious.

After two lovely courses and various champagne cocktails we were getting full so opted to share a dessert the desserts at Christopher's are an all American show with baked New York cheesecake, Brownie, Pecan Tart and peanut butter pudding being the dishes that stood out the most. Both being chocolate fiends we finally decided on the warm chocolate fudge brownie with vanilla ice cream, shaved chocolate, chocolate sauce and almond praline, it was huge and every rich chocolaty mouthful was well worth it!

Sitting there soaking up the atmosphere completely satisfied sipping our cocktails was the perfect end to a long week. Am I being bias?? maybe but everyone I've introduced to Christopher's has rushed back before and I shall be doing the same, so next time your in the west-end catching a show pop in and give it a try I guarantee you will be joining us in becoming frequent visitors.

Don't believe me? then check out for yourself here